After marking out where the lift will go, the perimeter is then scored on the first pass, then wet cut to full depth on the second.
The bulk of the concrete broken up.
Concrete removed and dug out a bit deeper.
Bottom packed with hardcore and sand. A channel for the control box cable is cut.
New damp proof course (DPC) laid down and a layer of concrete poured in.
The rebar mesh is laid down and the remaining concrete poured on top to make a total thickness of about 100mm.
Another thin layer of concrete for a smooth finish.
Final clean up of the edges after the concrete has fully set, followed by a few coats of damp proofing paint.
Holding my breath as the driver dangles the half ton lift above the neighbours car as he tries to manoeuvre into position.
But he makes the job a breeze.
A centre cover made from 18mm plywood and well braced/supported to take a fair bit of weight should it be required to (hopefully).
Finished! Shame I didn't have any matching colour floor paint for the centre cover!
2.5 ton Range Rover is about the biggest thing I will ever want to work on. As the air suspension can be lifted on these beasts I managed to get some axle stands underneath instead of using the normal rubber blocks.
Nice fitment Vikash, however be aware it's bad practice to "Fill in" the gap between the top of the scissor lift ramp and the vehicle :ie putting ramps there.
ReplyDeleteReason is the scissor lifts are constructed and built NOT to take the load until they have partly opened their scissor action probably by about 4". If they have to take the load before that spacing is opened then the loading upon the ramps and hinges is greatly increased and cracking and failure does occur.
ReplyDeleteAll the contents you mentioned in post is too good and can be very useful. I will keep it in mind, thanks for sharing the information keep updating, looking forward for more posts.Thanks
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